The History of The Varsity Jacket
By Matthew Kaplan
The varsity jacket is an essential wardrobe staple for 2022, recently making its way around the world from Soho street looks to Copenhagen catwalks. First created for the Harvard University baseball team in 1865, the garment has a rich history in both sporting events and streetwear. In the 1990’s hip hop culture capitalized on the outerwear, transitioning the piece from a representation of sportsmanship to a fashionable form of self expression. Although the jackets have changed a lot over the years, they have remained a signifier of achievement. With features on the Autumn/Winter 22’ runways of Louis Vuitton, Off-White, and more, these commemorated garments are a trend-bending must have for the modern fashionista.
The first time a letterman jersey was ever worn was by the Harvard University baseball team in 1865. In the 1890's they began to wear jerseys off the field, always distinguished by a large “H” embroidered on the chest. This led to the creation of “Letterman” pullovers and cardigans that had the basic idea of showing pride in belonging to that particular university—which continues to this day throughout ivy leagues.
In 1930 the classic varsity jacket was born. Athletes requested thicker clothing to combat the cold, and leather sleeves and buttons were added to the wool jersey. The statement letter moved to one side and the letterman jacket became a status item within universities.
In 1983 the letterman jacket became sought-after in pop culture when Michael Jackson wore a red and yellow one with an eponymous “M” for the “Thriller” music video.
Stüssy’s first jacket, “Homeboy”, was born in 1987 and was given to every member of the design board. It was later released to the public, making its way into commercial shopping.
More recently, high end streetwear has commercialized varsity jackets in a glamorous fashion. From Hedi Slimane to the late Virgil Abloh (pictured below), a multitude of designers have implemented the iconic piece into their collections in the 21st century.
Varsity jackets have been all over the Fall/Winter 2022 runway, with features in the collections of Louis Vuitton, Off-White, Celine, and Versace. Designers like Matty Bovan have taken an editorial approach to the garment, with layered and cut and sew jackets. The staple jacket has already trickled its way down to the isles of fast fashion stores, from Asos to Urban Outfitters. This season’s runways make it clear that the ever trending varsity jacket is here to stay, with vintage, high end, and affordable options available for every shopper's delight.
