Highlights from Copenhagen Fashion Week SS’25
From the biggest collections to emerging talent, we round up the new season
Every August and January fashion’s elite flock to the Danish capital to experience the popularity Copenhagen Fashion Week has continually captivated the world with in recent years. Although it’s not one of the big four fashion weeks, the serene capital always showcases a vibrancy during Copenhagen Fashion Week synonymous with the energy felt amongst the city through its colorful houses and picturesque scenery.
With brands, like Sinéad O’Dwyer and Rotate, showcasing their latest collections on the runway this August, inspiration, admiration, and energy buzzed through the city. The schedule boasted established and up-and-coming Scandinavian brands on the international stage, attracting an incomparably stylish crowd to the cult-favorite contemporary brands, who are pre-cursing what the fashion world is to see in September. Below Our Era brings to you the latest looks and designers who enthralled attendees this August, from Henrik Vibskov, Sól Hansdóttir, Stem, and more.
Irish designer Sinead O'Dwyer showed on the Copenhagen Fashion Week schedule for the very first time, having won the Zalando Visionary Award for 2024. Her collection, entitled 'Everything Opens To Touch', saw her reimagine some of her signature designs. Offering intentionally designed garments for women, femmes, and gender non-conforming individuals, diverse bodies are at the core of Sinead’s design process. There was plenty of bright blue denim, shown in pleated skirts and mini dresses, halter neck tanks, dresses emerging in a foam green, as well as slit skirts and pants that have been a commonality throughout recent spring/summer collections.
Photo Credit: James CochraneRotate unofficially brought Copenhagen Fashion Week to a close on August 8th with a show that celebrated summertime at the Danish capital’s Royal Majestic Gardens. The Copenhagen-based brand known for their sexy minidresses and covetable perfect-party pieces showcased their collection in collaboration with global jewelry brand, Pandora. Perfect with pastel hues, delicate floral prints, and their signature puff-sleeved Noon dress, looks were accessorized with chunky gold bracelets, rings, belts, and earrings. Pamela Anderson could be seen sitting front row with Toni Garn on the catwalk.
Photo Credit: James CochraneSól Hansdóttir (Designer to watch)
The Icelandic designer, who runs the brand from her London studio, is a designer to watch. Her experimental patternmaking and Icelandic folkloric and handcraft references result in off-kilter pieces for the modern consumer. With design stints at Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein, and J&H Davidson, Hansdóttir runs a very conscious label resulting from rigorous material sourcing, using only upcycled, deadstock, end-of-life, and locally sourced fabrics and materials, showcasing CPHFW’s commitment to continuously highlighting designers who are sustainable at their core.
The 14 look collection was shown over a two-hour period through a performance titled, “Simulation Swan,” in which the models were led through a choreography routine by performance artist Ásta Fanney. Colorfully distressed tops, protruding shoulder pads and asymmetrical hemmed skirts exemplified the punk, surrealist clothing showcased in this collection accessible and desirable for her cult-following.
Photo Credit: James CochraneRenowned Danish fashion designer, artist, curator, and musician, Henrik Vibskov, took the Copenhagen runways again this season. Known for his enticing collections creating universes crossing over into art installation, scenography, and exhibitions, his SS’25 collection titled, “The Orchestra of the Soft Assistance,” showcased a collection harmonizing the elegance of human empathy with the adaptive genius of the animal kingdom.
Dedicated to sustainability, all fabrics in the collection have been changed and elevated to be recycled or organic. Inspired by the marvels of assistance and adaptation, the collection mirrors the transformative abilities of the octopus. Fluid silhouettes, morphed patterns, and versatile garments provide a perfect selection for the consumer with a diverse wardrobe. Dissecting the classic check; a jacquard woven checkered fabric has morphed with ocean motifs, and in a checkered knit the pattern dissolves completely. Hands are represented in prints - little fingers supporting you, chopped factory fingers, analogue gloves, and peace offering messages are hidden in the corners, referencing CPHFW’s dedication to creating a peaceful, viable fashion industry for the future.
Stem (Designer to watch)
Stem is one of Copenhagen’s hottest fashion brands. Presenting their third collection, designer, Sarah Brunnhuber, explores the blend of high-tech and low-tech in its approach to zero-waste garment construction. Merging technique and form, ‘The Pulling Collection’ embraces distinctive asymmetrical fringes and meticulous woven structures, elements that have become central pillars of Stem’s visual language. During the runway show, Stem’s team was pulling and knotting live where models moved through the space, interacting with the installation that showcases Edition 3’s draped fabrics and looks, styled with pieces from Brunnhuber’s Editions 1 and 2.
A member of Dazed 100 in 2022 and working with Ganni on their 2024 New Talent panel discussion, Stem is a clothing brand founded on an innovative zero-waste production system. The name “Stem,” derived from the word “system,” highlighting the production system Brunnhuber has developed as well as a flawed fashion system the brand is persisting to challenge and disrupt. Stem's weaving, cutting, and sewing system eliminates garment production waste and creates a visual aesthetic that tells a production story. With its experimental approach to zero-waste garments, Stem bridges craft and industry, aiming to disrupt the current cycle of overproduction and overconsumption.
